![]() ![]() If you just slam it in it almost always grinds for 3rd. Trouble shifting into first sometimes, grinds into 3rd if you don't let it go fully into neutral and push it gently into 3rd. My uncle is coming out to save the day again today.he's bringing his bleeder kit. I'm concerned something else broke.ĭid I blow the master cylinder? The slave cylinder? Is there a clog in the line? I'm at a loss. Still feels like it's sucking air IN when I open it.īecause the clutch stopped working right before I changed the hose.with no apparent signs of leak in the hose.or anywhere else. I even took the bleeder screw out, cleaned it and wrapped the threads in Teflon tape. I feel like when I open the bleeder after pulling the pedal back up.I feel air getting sucked into the bleeder screw. The fluid in the reservoir never moves.stays at the same level, and the clutch never builds pressure. Close the bleeder, pull the pedal back up.repeat. Topped the fluid up, opened the bleeder, pushed the pedal in, and I get air and little spurts of fluid coming out. I had the new one so I replaced it anyway.Ĭhanged the hose and went to bleed the system. Upon inspection, the fluid was above minimum, and the patched hose didn't appear to be leaking. I figured the patch had just finally gave up. Just before I was about to change the hose, I tried pulling my car around.and the clutch stopped working. It was slowly leaking, and the fluid in the reservoir was going down. I drove the car all week with the patched hose. The next day (Tuesday) I tried to pick up a new hose but nobody carried them. My uncle drove out to me, drove my car to his house with no clutch (the tranny took a beating), took the hose off, patched it, we bled the clutch, and it worked. Obviously the clutch lost pressure, pedal went to the floor, and it stayed engaged. Replaced the clutch master cylinder with a new one (local part storeĬould not get a repair kit) and bleeding finally worked.So last week my clutch hydraulic hose blew a leak. There was a (not soĮvident) crack in the cup that was visible (picture 3). The rubber cup was all chippedĪt the outside edge (picture 2) but the lip and inside looked OK until Iįlipped it inside out and the cause appeared. , Mazda B2300 Clutch Pedal Bracket., Pedals, Footrests & Plates for Mazda. Off came the clutch master cylinder and dissassembly (picture 1). Mazda - Protege - Wiring Diagram - 2002 - 2002. Bleeding gave the same result as before! Verified that the hose did not have any issue, so all that was left to check was the clutch master cylinder. So I replaced it and thought I had fixed the problem. Many customers have found that the pads fit perfectly on their Mazda vehicles, such as the Mazda BJ Familia hatchback and the Mazda Protege 5. Sound (due to crap that had entered the cylinder - the boot was split) While bleeding, the clutch slave cylinder made some rather harsh All I needed to do wasīleed the clutch and be done with it. (brake pads were almost to the metal), so I assumed it was theĬause. I also had the "clutch to the floor" problem. There’s a thread here on how to do it, but where exactly is the slave cylinder? And where on the slave cylinder is the bleeder valve exactly? Thanks all. For 19,895, Proteg5’s come well-equipped with such features as a 130 horsepower 4 cylinder engine, four wheel disc brakes with ABS, and AM/FM/CD player, but air conditioning, moonroof, and automatic. I read on a thread here there might still be air in there and I need to bleed it out. Introduced in May, the 2002 Mazda Proteg5 hatchback is aimed at younger buyers who want both performance and practicality. As in my foot needs to press the clutch ALL the way down. Now that I’m driving it, the pedal engages super low. Anyone else with problems with this clutch kit? I see even in this forum a member found pieces of the pressure plate broken off in about a year’s use. I did some quick research prior to purchase but now that I have more time I see in the other Mazda forum this kit might go boom in about 10k miles. ![]() Clutch pedal was still iffy so master cylinder was replaced. Overnighted an ACT clutch kit (ZX4-HDSS) and got that replaced. How to remove and replace a manual transmission and clutch. Once OEM was out he said the clutch did need replacing. The shop I took it to ordered the wrong clutch kit and the head mechanic was gone on vacation so I had to scramble and search for a clutch kit that would fit. First, the parts from the dealership were the whole clutch kit, but flywheel resurfaced plus the slave cylinder, which they said was fine. I took it to a different shop as some people suggested.
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